In my humble opinion, Geoff Weaver is one of the finest winemakers in Australia. Each year, he crafts the only Sauvignon Blanc I buy, and enjoy.....astonishing, I know.
Long before the boys from Shaw and Smith gave us the iconic "M3", Geoff's Chardonnay has given great cause to celebrate the elevated Lenswood sub-region of the Adelaide Hills.
This is vintage 2012, which was sourced from its current Sydney-based distributor, suggesting it is either current release, or close to it. Typically a wine that takes several years to settle into its skin, it's a treat to have a wine of this age in the market.
The colour supports its time in bottle and the winemaking behind it. Yellow from centre to rim. Colour is derived more from winemaking (barrel fermentation) than it is from age.
Aromatically, a mix of savoury / wheat-germ characters are enlivened by lemon-driven freshness and a lick of quality French oak. There's a genuine, dare-I-say, Burgundian sensibility at play here. There are more treble notes than bass.
(As is often the way with white wines of a certain age, time exposed to air when opened actually lightens its colour in the glass).
The pedigree of this wine shows itself at the same time it affirms its longevity. There have been Chardonnays bottled this year that show far less drive and precision.
The lemon-pith acidity, if anything, is still yet to settle down. It props up the pristine fruit that gives the wine its weight,
For lovers of cool-climate chardonnay, this is irresistible, especially if you have the patience to put a few dozen aside for another 5-10 years. It's a niche wine, and one that might just bring Sauv Blanc devotees back to the variety. There's some irony.
Drinking window - 2018 - 2028
Price - $42
Closure - Screwcap
Alcohol - 12.0%